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An Italian
American Easter
By Lidia Matticchio Bastianich
“One of the most persistent traits of the Italian culture…. is
the cuisine…. There is no other trait of Italian culture that
receives anything like this treatment from the American
population at large and that would, consequently, be so
uniformly reinforced.” says Irving Child in Italian or American?
The second Generation In Conflict.
Food culture, preparation, and consumption have transcended,
more than any other trait, through generations of immigrants.
The ritual of the holiday table is the most exemplary, and
Easter is the most revered holiday for the Italians. Good Friday
is the most solemn day followed by the celebration of the joy of
Resurrection on Easter Sunday.
I can tell you the holiday by the dishes served the Italian
American feast. The “sfingi”, “baccala” and “zeppole” signify
the leanness of Good Friday. Easter Sunday usually follows with
the celebratory roasted lamb, fava beans, spring peas, and
artichokes. There is always some form of stuffed pasta,
tortellini, manicotti, or pasticciata. The “pizza chiena” is
filled with salami eggs and cheese. For dessert, the “pastiera”
or ricotta and whole grain pieis enjoyed in addition to the “pinze”,
sweet egg bread formed in a braid with colored eggs imbedded in
it.
The family meal—especially the Italian holiday meal—reinforces
family unity and identity; it is a bond of belonging and
continuity.
RUSTIC-CUT ROASTED LAMB SHOULDER
Spalla d’Agnello Arrosta
Makes 6 servings
3 1/2 pounds lamb shoulder (with bones), cut into 2-inch pieces
2 celery ribs, trimmed and roughly chopped
2 large carrots, peeled, trimmed and roughly chopped
1 large onion, peeled and quartered
3 bay leaves
3 sprigs fresh rosemary
1 cup dry white wine
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
¼ cup balsamic vinegar
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 cups Chicken Stock or canned reduced-sodium chicken broth
1/4 cup dried porcini mushrooms
Toss all ingredients except the stock and dried porcini together
in a bowl. Cover and marinate, tossing several times, then
refrigerate overnight. Let stand at room temperature 1 hour
before roasting.
Bring the stock to a boil in a small saucepan. Remove from the
heat, toss in the porcini and let steep until softened, about 20
minutes. Scoop out the porcini and rinse them lightly to remove
and grit. Strain the soaking liquid through a coffee filter or
carefully pour it off into a small bowl, leaving the sediment
behind.
Preheat the oven to 475° F. Turn the lamb and marinade
ingredients into a roasting pan large enough to hold them in a
single layer. Add the mushrooms and their soaking liquid. Cover
with aluminum foil and roast 30 minutes.
Remove the foil, season lightly with salt and pepper and roast
until the meat is tender, about 1 hour. Turn the pieces of lamb
and baste them several times as they cook.
Using a slotted spoon, transfer the meat to an ovenproof serving
dish. Set the roasting pan over high heat, bring the liquid in
the pan to a boil and boil until the liquid is slightly syrupy,
about 15 minutes. Strain the juices into a bowl, pressing on the
vegetables to extract as much liquid from them as possible.
Spoon off the fat from the surface of the juices and pour the
remaining liquid over the meat. Return the lamb to the oven and
roast, turning the meat frequently, until very tender and well
browned all over, about 15 minutes.
--Lidia Matticchio Bastianich is the author and Public
Television host of Lidia’s Italian American Kitchen and Lidia’s
Italian Table. She is currently working on a third 39-part
television series and companion cookbook, Lidia’s Family Table.
Lidia is the co-owner of Felidia, Becco and Esca restaurants in
New York and Lidia’s in Kansas City and Pittsburgh. For more
information on Lidia, visit www.lidiasitaly.com.
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